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How to eat: fishcakes

Rewind 10 years and fishcakes were flying. They were a gastropub staple, and supermarket sales of the readymade variety were soaring, with Waitrose reporting a 50percent uptick. But then? The fishcake tanked. In the following decade, those piscine pucks faded from menus as quickly as mid-00s memories of dial-up modems, Labour governments and smoking in pubs. The past is another country, where they ate fishcakes.

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